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Custom BKA Upright Cabinets
 
First up, sorry - we are terrible at recording the work we do - we plan to get better at it, partly because we think it would be a nice touch for customers to be able to refer to how their cab was made - but no promises, as we have stated elswhere this isn't our primary job (actually it's a hobby, and as such doesn't even come close to breaking even) so time is typically not on our side.

I will likely refer to words / terminology common in reference to Arcade machines but you might not be familar with, please use this page to provide further clarity.
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This Upright build occured in Feb 2014

We needed to build 12x new Upright arcade cabinets and 2x Cabaret cabinets - some of which are for home use, rest for rental or comercial sale.

The process required developing plans for what we wanted to build, and then developing a cutting plan so we could get the most material out of the 30x sheets (1220x2440x18 mm) of MDF purchased.

Arcade plans can be found here
BKA Workshop:
  workshop1  workshop2  
 
Creating the templates:
From the plan create a side template - this won't even be used in a cab, they are used as a pattern for the router and the drill hole (or dowel) locations, this first one will be very manual, and require lots of sanding / fiddling with to get the look "just right".

Once you are happy with the shape of the template, use it to create both sides.
  1. Draw around template on source sheet,
  2. Then jigsaw 5 to 8mm out from the line to remove waste,
  3. Then clamp template to side and route (using Router with straight flute bit) around using the template as the guide.
We run through the complete build process for the first cab to test the build process / This way we can make any alterations necessary BEFORE cutting out everything and potentially wasting material.

Building the first machine
We first use the template on the first side to workout where all the drill holes are - then use that template to pre-drill all sides from that point.
This also means the template can be reused over and over again - making sure to guarantee each side is completely consistent.

Now we finally start to assemble something
  1. Console unit (2x pieces)
  2. Marques unit (4x pieces)
  3. Kickplate, base and coin box (8x pieces plus reinforcing for wheels)
start01  start02
start03  start04
Then we put the battens on the table (this is to bring the back up the depth of the mdf (18mm) so as to allow for back door to be flush when added at end of build)
  1. Placed first the Kickplate complete bottom section on and built a jig to hold in correct place, then fastened first side to it
  2. The did same with marque section - made jig to hold in correct place, fastened to side
  3. Rotated cab (ideally should have worked on other side - but garage just now to full to do that) and fastened other side to cab components
  4. then added other internal struts (console shelf, PCB shelf etc)
  5. Add console to cab
The jigs created will be used for assembling the remaining 11 cabs.
Built1  Built2
Built3  Built4
Filled and Sanded 4 uprights, fitted backs and damage rails,
Built5  Built6
And then applied sealer (needed for MDF) and 3x top coats of satin black

build7  built8

Mass production:
Now that we have a successful complete build, we cut all the related sections at the same time on the table saw - While this is a lot of work, it means every piece is exactly the same width etc - so will come togther seemlessly during the fitting process.
  1. We cut all 25 full sheets at the same time (in half, including removing waste) so everything is 600mm deep (all exactly the same) resulting in 50x 600x2440 sheets
  2. We cut all sides (24x 1800x600) 
  3. We cut all the kick plates (12x 780x600) - leaving 12x 1655x600 sheets that we used for back doors and framing etc
  4. Cut all related framing/console sections at same time  (200x600 and 150x600) from the left-overs from the side sections etc
wrkshp1  wrkshp2
When you're only doing a machine at a time - a hand router works fine, especially for T-molding if not a bit slow, fiddly and you can easily make mistakes .
However we often build several machines at a time - so we built a routing table - pictured below, this massively speeds up the process and accuracy - if you want to build a routing table refer here

We then used this to do the T-cuts on the sides and cab front pieces, this guarantees an excellent consistent finish.
allSides  tableRouter
At this point we repeat all the build steps shown above  x11  - it takes a long time.
4cabsBuilt  7cabsBuilt
From here we are only going to follow one cab through the rest of the process

First we apply the vinyl carefully to sides, working from one end to the other so as to remove any chance of air bubles being traped under the vinyl, and then trim the edges with a very sharp modellers knife.
vinyl1  vinyl2
 vinyl3
As Marvel's Captain America - Winter's Soldier movie is due out soon we have gone for a Marvel's Avenger's theme for this cab.
 vinyl4
 Vinyl6  vinyl7
Once the sides are done, we apply the CP with vinyl base / art and add buttons and joysticks - refer to the How-to-Build-a-CP section  for these steps.

  console
Added Avengers logo to top sides of cab
build17  build18
Install 22" LCD monitor, sound amplifier and speakers, Game PCB, then wire up and test buttons / joystick etc work  ...and maybe sneak in a quick game or two (all legitimate testing of course)
Then
back paint bezel with black paint [spray can], and mount
complete1  complete2
Install Marque and marque lights (LED strip), wire up and configure coin mech (multi-coin).

... and then a full 2 player testing process begins, before shipping to customer.

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